Dries Van Noten’s New Chapter: Julian Klausner’s Debut at Paris Fashion Week
On 5 March 2025, during Paris Fashion Week, the iconic Opéra Garnier served as the backdrop for a significant moment in fashion history: Julian Klausner’s inaugural collection as the new creative director for Dries Van Noten. Following the retirement of the brand’s founder, Dries Van Noten, in late 2024, Klausner’s debut was among the most anticipated events of the season.
A Grand Stage for a New Vision
Choosing the opulent Opéra Garnier was a testament to Klausner’s ambitious vision. The historic venue, steeped in artistic legacy, mirrored the brand’s rich history while signalling a fresh perspective under new leadership. This setting underscored the maison’s commitment to honouring its past while embracing a new beginning.
An Invigorating Challenge
Designing for Dries Van Noten is no small feat. The brand is renowned for its intricate use of colours, prints, and materials, often layered within a single ensemble—a signature that requires a deft and discerning touch. Julian Klausner, who has been with the maison since 2018, demonstrated his mastery in this debut. At 33, the Belgian designer, with prior stints at Kenzo and Galliano, acknowledged the enormity of succeeding the brand’s founder. Yet, he viewed it as a unique opportunity to continue and expand upon the Dries Van Noten narrative.
A Deep-Seated Love for Fashion
In a press statement, Klausner reflected on his early fascination with clothing: “I fell in love with garments as a child, thanks to my family’s dress-up box. I assembled objects, felt the textures, and experienced the sensations that wearing clothes could provoke.” He continued, “Here, I envisioned women traversing the opera house, gathering fabrics and objects, tying them with a shoelace, in search of an answer to an unknown question.” This poetic imagery translated into a collection that captivated and enchanted.
Masterful Layering and Textural Play
Klausner’s collection was a vibrant tapestry of colours, mixed prints, and layered textures. Polka dots, sheer fabrics, fringes, tailored pieces, oversized silhouettes, asymmetric shoulders, shimmering elements, and prominent belts coalesced seamlessly. Draped fabrics appeared to sculpt the models’ forms, adding a dynamic fluidity to the presentation. The interplay of materials—leather, devoré velvet, wool, jacquard, lace, and sequins—showcased Klausner’s adeptness at blending diverse elements harmoniously. The movement of fringed patchwork pieces and the delicate fabrics draped like capes contrasted strikingly with sequined dresses, highlighting Klausner’s orchestrated approach to accumulation and layering.
A Promising Future
Julian Klausner’s debut for Dries Van Noten was a testament to his deep understanding of the brand’s ethos and his ability to infuse it with fresh energy. By honouring the maison’s legacy while introducing his unique perspective, Klausner set the stage for an exciting new chapter in the brand’s storied history.
