Today, we delve into the world of Juana Martin, the Spanish brand that presented its Autumn/Winter 2024 collection during Haute Couture Week in Paris.

"Pared del Cal" is a deep and poetic reflection on the dichotomy between good and evil, which inspired Juana. After all, we are plural beings, harbouring all kinds of emotions within us. This eternal internal struggle between good and evil questions how we can continue to have good thoughts and actions in the face of so many earthly and carnal temptations.

BLACK AND WHITE FOR ALL

The designer used black and white to represent the divine sacredness of sins and, despite being opposites, how they walk side by side.

This duality was expressed through a popular Spanish saying by Santa Teresa, which goes, "Entre freiras e monges, muro de cal e pedra" (Between nuns and monks, a wall of lime and stone). This is a metaphor for the harmonious yet tense coexistence between them.

It also symbolises the white walls and the heat present in her native Andalusia.

VIVA MI ANDALUCÍA!

Juana always translates her origins into her work. Her Andalusia, which inspires her so much, was there, always has been, and always will be... alive and vibrant.

These walls symbolically separate our thoughts between good and evil, between the sacred and the sinful. The temptation and its forbidden fruit were richly interpreted through the artisanal work, which was explored with a diversity of materials.

YES! Juana Martin loves to work with and explore craftsmanship and is always seeking new techniques, transforming her creations into true works of art. This, to me, is her strong point!

Exploring a colour palette is not common in the designer’s work (her favourite colours are black and white), but this time she introduced red as a symbol of the sacred heart, the red of seduction, the red of power... once again highlighting the duality within our emotions.

A FRUIT SALAD, PLEASE!

Fruits were also brought in to symbolise this duality between the sin of gluttony and, at the same time, the symbols of the region's riches. Grapes, pears, and apples were transformed into bags, embroideries, and accessories.

ANGELS AND DEMONS

The symbolism was far from subtle in this collection:

The angels had wings entirely covered with black roses or studded with crystals.

The demons (in the flesh) challenged the guests or perhaps tried to entice them?

They were explored in materials such as plexi (a transparent plastic) which was transformed into sculptures, as well as a kind of gelatine (a bio-textile material) that was directly used in the embroideries.

THE SPINES – THE PAIN AND DELIGHT OF BEING!

Fish spines were present in much of the collection, either in embroideries or in maxi jewellery, ranging from large earrings to big buttons that adorned a jacket. And let’s pause for the draped dress covered in spines entirely embroidered with crystals. I would say it’s almost a metaphor that to know happiness, one must go through challenges, and that nothing good or bad lasts forever!

A powerful collection that invites us to reflect on what can be good or bad for each individual, depending on the perspective.

Juana explored all elements with great detail: embroideries, drapes, transparencies, ruffles, sparkles, maxi jewellery, roses, feathers, lace, gloves, hats, fruits, and flowing fabrics… Truly worthy of a Haute Couture collection!

The Spanish designer proves once again that she has her place in the exclusive world of Haute Couture. This is just the beginning of an increasingly brilliant future, and in the end, good always prevails, always will!