Paul Costelloe reflects on 40 years of London Fashion Week

Paul Costelloe opened London Fashion Week with his impeccable Spring/Summer 2025 collection, celebrating his 40 years on the runway in grand style. The show, held at the Waldorf Hilton in London, transported the audience to the charming streets of Paris, which served as the primary inspiration for his creations this season. The atmosphere was carefully orchestrated, from the soundtrack to the soft colour palette, creating an air of sophistication and freshness.

The collection showcased a lighter and more relaxed approach from Costelloe without losing his signature refined tailoring. The pieces featured pastel tones and impeccable cuts, like an elegant yellow linen ensemble consisting of a structured blazer and wide, flowing trousers. The sophistication of the pieces was evident, bringing a modern and effortless femininity.

Floral textures were also prominent, such as the light yellow ensemble with a blazer and short skirt adorned with floral appliqués, evoking freshness and youthfulness. A playful element appeared with the use of long socks, a typical choice for Paul Costelloe, who loves to explore the irreverence of pairing sandals with socks. This added a sense of fun and playfulness to the looks, creating a modern contrast with the classic elegance of the garments.

The models’ voluminous hair, styled with 1960s-inspired looks, complemented the collection’s aesthetic. The wide headbands worn by the models, along with soft pink makeup and defined eyes, evoked the glamour and femininity of a golden era in fashion. The blend of modern and nostalgic elements gave the looks a special touch, referencing the past with a contemporary edge.

The light blue pieces also stood out, with fluid dresses and sharply tailored suits. Costelloe’s signature use of fabrics such as linen and silk jacquards appeared in more youthful versions, with ruffles adding movement to the pieces. In a moment that flirts with the classic while simultaneously exploring modernity, Costelloe showcased his talent for creating collections that appeal to multiple generations.

The final looks, featuring a series of bridal pieces, closed the show in a stunning fashion, presenting ethereal, light, and delicate dresses adorned with embroidery and romantic details. This bridal line, officially launched in this collection, confirmed Costelloe’s ability to balance tradition and modernity in perfect harmony. The finale was one of the most memorable moments, with bridal gowns that exuded both romance and modernity.

With a unique aesthetic that blends youthful freshness and classic elegance, Paul Costelloe reaffirms his importance on the international fashion scene with another collection that captivated the audience.

I was seated in the front row, wearing a pleated trousers and shirt ensemble, with my trousers featuring a print from Paul’s previous collection, which was presented in February and inspired by the city of New York. This direct reference between collections brought a special sense of continuity and evolution to the designer’s work, who once again stands out for his ability to capture the essence of different themes and translate them into timeless yet modern creations.

Among the attendees were the Spencer sisters, nieces of Princess Diana, as well as singer Una Healy, who also paid tribute to the collection, highlighting the recognition and respect that Paul Costelloe continues to hold in contemporary fashion. At the end of the show, the designer appeared at the top of the staircase, wearing his signature vest and jeans, and received warm applause from the audience, a gesture of affection and recognition for yet another chapter in his brilliant career in fashion.

Paul Costelloe reaffirms his position as one of the great names in world fashion, always reinventing his craft while staying true to his essence, and enchanting the audience with creations that are both modern and timeless.

Photos Avesso Magazine by Daniela Luquini