Inside Hector Maclean’s BASTARD ARISTOCRATS: What to Expect at LFW
In this interview, we get a sneak peek at Hector Maclean’s BASTARD ARISTOCRATScollection, and we can't wait to see everything come to life on the runway at London Fashion Week next week. Inspired by his ancestral roots, particularly his ancestor Lady Bellasis, and infused with his personal history, this collection represents a profound shift from his previous work. This will be an exciting new chapter in Maclean’s career.
With your 'BASTARD ARISTOCRATS' collection debuting at LFW February 2025, how does it differ from your past collections, especially in terms of the narrative and overall style on the runway?
BASTARD ARISTOCRATS is vastly different from former collections as it's a lot more personal. In previous seasons, I've referenced women who've inspired me as our brand is so women-centred and I'm so obsessed with women. This time is no different, however I am basing it specifically on my ancestor Lady Bellasis, whilst heavily incorporating my upbringing, my life and the dichotomy of Britain. So it's kind of a new idea, and this is more camp than I have ever gone in a previous season... normally I try and do quite high fashion pieces and experimental shapes; this season we are doing interesting silhouettes, but it's a lot more about embellishment.
Can you share some insights into your upcoming collection? What are the key themes or inspirations that have shaped this new collection?
The collection BASTARD ARISTOCRATS is based on myself and my ancestor Lady Bellasis who had an affair with King James II and had an heir that was acknowledged by the royal family. I didn't actually find out until not that long ago! The idea is that we can all come from royalty; that royalty is for everyone; we don't know people's backgrounds and heritage; we all come from ancestors, and history doesn't define the individuals that we are. Britain is such an electric mix of high and low, punk and aristocracy; it's a crazy island that personifies extravagance and punk rebellion, but at heart we are all one, and I'm immensely proud to be from the United Kingdom. That's what this collection celebrates.
Do you have a routine when starting a new collection?
I tend to start with moodboards, referencing and writing down what I'm inspired by, really trying to brainstorm about all that is influencing me at the time and what I feel led to say. I try and have a narrative that says something poignant in the moment. I think music that has no meaning is nice to listen to but it won't last you forever... I want to express commentary within each of my collections, saying something meaningful, something about society, like any art form should - it should challenge us; it should make us think; ave purpose. Meaningless art is often beautiful but art that really sticks with you is that of substance.
Your designs often blur the lines between fashion and art. How do you approach combining these two worlds?
Many of my good friends are artists and it's such a self expression and a way of debuting something, harking back to purpose defining art. Art is commentary, it is modern, it's saying something, and that's what I want to do through fashion. The problem with fashion, however, is that it has to conform to such constrictions in sizing and in being seasonal of what people want to wear - it is the rag trade at the end of the day. It's different from the art world; it has different monsters, it has different beasts. It's a lot more centred around humanity, when art can be very otherworldly. At the heart of fashion, it has to be about people, which I do love but it can also restrict any form of artistic expression because you are conforming to the shape of a body, and although you can go hugely away from that and do balloon-esc shapes, you also have to think about what someone will buy, as there's such a commercial edge. In art, you can almost say anything, and actually the more controversial, the more provocative and the more strange the art is, the more sellable it is, whereas in fashion the less complicated and the less controversial is often the better seller.
Your path into fashion has been both inspiring and challenging. Could you share how your experiences have shaped your design philosophy?
With me and fashion, it's like I'm on fire - I have to get it out of me otherwise it burns me up. I get frustrated and hate being bored. If I didn't do fashion, I don't know what I'd do! I have to; I have to create, and I think that burning desire is never going to leave me. I'm never going to stop designing. I'm never going to stop doing this because it's what I'm made to do. And I think that's maybe what the accident I had years ago also taught. Being so young and realising mortality is quite tricky. But it made me stronger, and I think you just kind of deal with it. It showed me that life really is short and we have to appreciate ever second we have, and every opportunity we're given. It could end any moment, so just aim to express what you're trying to get out of your body. I must also say how much sustainability is a huge part of Hector Maclean. All our fabrics are recycled, donated or saved from landfill or dead stock. We try and save every single scrap from our studio and reuse it for other looks, and we do zero waste pattern cutting. Environmental issues are huge to me, I think harking back to my background with things being quite hard growing up - I was always quite loathed to throw things away and I think that has carried through to the brand, where we try and be as ecological as physically possible, and use synthetics as little as possible as they don't biodegrade; we try and use natural fibres where we can.
What is the one piece from your upcoming collection that you're most excited about?
I think all the pieces with Union Jacks *laughs*... as it's so hammy! I've tried to do it in such an elegant way, but there is a deep fear within me of Oh gosh, is this too much... The Union Jack pieces worried me, the colour palette worried me, the shapes worried me, the association worried me, but I'm really excited about what they've transformed into.
What work are you most proud of?
I'm most proud of aiming to bring a new silhouette to the industry, and projecting British representation in the fashion scene as there aren't that many UK designers showing in London right now. I'm also immensely proud to have been showcased in Vogue Poland - my grandmother was in the concentration camps and it's funny that Polish Vogue was the first Vogue I was featured in... I think that would have made my grandmother really proud, and it deeply touches me.
What’s your favorite moment of the catwalk show preparation? Is it the final fitting, seeing the models on stage, or something else entirely?
I do love seeing models looking proud and excited to go down the runway - that is a wonderful moment seeing models feel themselves whilst feeling like they're becoming a character, personifying something and feeling overwhelmed with joy. I also love the afterglow on all the make up and hair teams, and on everyone really, it makes me very happy seeing my team proud of what has been accomplished.
How did your career begin? Tell us about your time at Vivienne Westwood?
I started sewing when I was eleven and then my sister who was beautifully curvy found that nothing ever fit properly, so I started designing for her and fell in love with it. I then saw the shows of Alexander McQueen and John Galliano and was like, damn! I didn't know fashion could be this; this is like art, another world like the world in my head but in reality, when the world seems so coarse and so intense, there's this other beautiful realm of fashion where beauty and high drama can exist. My time at Vivienne Westwood was fun and ridiculous, and was great going to Paris Fashion Week. Witnessing how Vivienne worked with her quarter mannequins was phenomenal; she'd send pieces down to us and we had to ascertain how she draped and put things together, examining the way she saw the world. It was truly astonishing to view and be a part of the high end of the industry.
Outside of work, what are your main passions?
Creating, expressing myself, inspiring other people, and showing them a different perception of the world we live in.
What excites you about the fashion world right now?
I'm really enjoying the massive silhouette cuts and drapes that we're seeing more of within our industry. Also of course John Galliano's comeback with his inaugural haute couture collection for Maison Margiela excites me, and that idea of romance returning to fashion - there's this fight between quiet luxury and extravagance, and from an extravagance perspective I so hope we win *laughs*. What's also exhilarating is the heightened sustainability practices we're witnessing in our industry!
