The Arrival of Haider Ackermann: A New Era for Tom Ford

The highly anticipated debut took place in Paris during Fashion Week, and I can already say it was a brilliant start for Haider Ackermann, who presented his first Fall/Winter 2025/2026 collection as the new Creative Director of Tom Ford. In a week filled with designer debuts, this was certainly one of the most awaited.

A DANCE BETWEEN TWO WORLDS

The show opened with a series of black and white looks, featuring leather as the standout material—a fabric deeply embedded in Tom Ford’s DNA. Ackermann paid homage to the house codes while making it clear that he is ready to usher in a new era for the brand.

According to the designer:

“A beginning is a new dance. You start by looking at your partner, acknowledging differences, exploring similarities, trying to find ways to match each other’s steps and move harmoniously.

Entering the house that Mr Tom Ford built, I was drawn to the man himself, whose personality reverberates through everything he envisioned. He is nightlife, I am the morning after: this is where our dance begins.”

This contrast between nightlife and the morning after was seamlessly transformed into a unique rhythm, with garments that move effortlessly between both moods.

REDEFINING TOM FORD

Ackermann’s Tom Ford is not about extravagant or over-the-top designs—what matters most is the impeccable tailoring, careful fabric choices, and the subtlety of every detail. Well-made clothing, clean lines, sharp cuts, and premium materials take centre stage in his vision for the brand.

COLOURING TOM FORD

Yes! Ackermann’s fearless use of colour was evident throughout the collection. From bold, vibrant yellow suits to pastel hues like lavender, soft blue, and buttery yellow, his designs showcased a spectrum of emotions. The dresses ranged from ultra-sexy, with daring thigh-high slits, to more conservative long-sleeved silhouettes—after all, fashion allows us to embrace many versions of ourselves, doesn’t it?

A NEW TAKE ON THE SMOKING JACKET

Under Ackermann’s vision, the smoking jacket became shorter, with shirts completely unbuttoned, paired with asymmetrical trousers cinched at the waist with a leather belt—an undeniably sexy touch! The collection also featured strong tailoring, a defining element of Tom Ford, reimagined in new fabrics, silhouettes, and colours.

HAIDER MEETS HAIDER

Haider Ackermann, the French-Colombian designer, has taken on the challenging role of succeeding Tom Ford. His impressive career includes studies at École nationale supérieure des beaux-arts de Paris, founding his own brand, and working with major fashion houses like John Galliano and Berluti.

In 2023, he was personally invited by Jean Paul Gaultier to design the Haute Couture collection, a show that received one of the biggest standing ovations of the season. Ackermann’s eye for detail and deep passion for fashion make him a designer with an artistic soul and a couture sensibility.

LOVE IS IN THE AIR

Yes, this collection was drenched in love and seduction—seen in the sultry slits, the bold red lips, and the delicacy of the chosen fabrics. As Ackermann himself put it:

“The morning after, when everything unnecessary has been left behind. What remains are feelings, impressions, and lips bleeding red from having been kissed all night. I believe in love.”

And we loved the collection!