Interview with Fashion Designer Cookie H.
Cookie H. is a dynamic and imaginative force within the fashion industry, celebrated for her innovative brand, ByCookieH., which she launched in 2008 during her studies at White Cliffe College in New Zealand. Her passion for second hand shopping and transforming unique finds has allowed her to develop a signature style that beautifully blends sustainability with personal expression. With a design aesthetic grounded in a striking palette of black, white, and grey, each of Cookie’s creations undergoes meticulous structural manipulation, resulting in distinctive pieces that honour individuality. In this interview, we delve into how her brand encapsulates fashion that feels profoundly personal and is tailored to life’s most memorable moments.
I'm fascinated by your brand. I feel like it's such a good vibe. And it's a pleasure for me to be interviewing you today. Thank you for making the time. So here is my first question, how did you first get interested in fashion design?
Wow, that's tricky. Well, actually, I don’t—when I was a student, back in ages ago, I didn’t really know what I was supposed to do in the future. And, you know, like many Chinese kids, my parents controlled a lot and looked after me, telling me what to do for a stable life. So, I thought I’d just get a job in an office as they expected. But when I went overseas to study in college, I found out I had no interest in business subjects. I dropped my studies and started fresh at art school. While studying, I realized fashion design was definitely what I wanted and loved. My classmates and I would go to second hand shops, and find things, and I started making and selling what I created. That’s when I thought, maybe I could do something in fashion design.
Do you think having this background of going to second hand shops helped you create a sustainable brand today?
Oh, well, it’s a long process. Yes, starting with that experience gave me ideas. When you make things, you figure out what you want to do, what styles you like, and what people respond to. Through my art foundation course and fashion design training, I learned about the fashion industry, and how to make garments, and eventually found my focus.
What was the hardest bit when you started your brand?
You know, when you start school, you often need to do internships and things like that. During my internships, I realized that I didn't feel suited to work for someone else's brand or company. My personality just didn't align with the fashion industry's typical structures. I thought it might be easier for me to work independently and start my own brand. I decided to see if I could make it on my own, and if I could survive, I would just keep going. That’s how I began my journey while still in school.
What experiences from working with big New Zealand brands like Karen Walker and Zambesi did you bring to your brand?
I learned a lot from both. They’re very different in terms of size, style, and market. Karen Walker taught me how to do commercial fashion, while Zambesi focuses on avant-garde, individualistic designs with lots of handmade processes. I picked up many handmade skills there, such as hand-stitching every button. It was a great experience.
Can you tell us about a key moment in your career that influenced your designs?
A key moment? Well, pretty much every life experience, good and bad, influences my designs. For example, having my first child, getting married, and getting divorced—all of these moments have shaped my individual designs.
Did you use those feelings to create a collection or piece that you could share with us?
Yes, definitely. My relationships have led me to move, first from New Zealand to Malaysia, where I started a new studio. Each move has been an important moment in my career, especially when I returned to China after my divorce. These changes have added depth to my brand, shaping my designs. It’s interesting to see how my experiences influence the collections I create, as there’s always a story behind each piece.
Why do you focus on non-season fashion, and how does this help the environment?
It wasn’t intentional at first, but when I moved back to Asia, I realized my customer base needed clothing for opposite seasons. That’s when I thought about creating non-seasonal designs. It helps the environment by allowing us to focus on versatile materials and avoid the excess that comes with strictly seasonal fashion.
What new materials or techniques are you excited to try in future collections?
We have lots of new ideas we're working on. Most of our garments are hand-dyed, so every season or every year, we try to figure out new colour collections using our object dye techniques. For example, we use different materials from plants and nature to keep the process more organic. We’re still working on perfecting our hand-dyeing techniques and experimenting with new materials.
We also do some hand-drawn designs. I often capture the sketches my daughters make, and I use them for fabric prints and patterns. Every season, we create a small collection featuring these hand-drawn elements, made by my daughters, my partners, or others close to me. I always draw inspiration from the people in my life.
What makes your brand, BYCookie H., special?
Well, I gave sort of a big picture, but we’re just trying to make clothes that represent the individuality of each person—it’s more personal. I hope that every girl who wears our clothes feels more like herself and that the pieces fit her character. So, every time they pick up our clothes, they can think, "Oh, I got this from BYCookie H. for a special occasion—maybe an anniversary or graduation dress." That connection is important to me, and it feels really good.
Looking ahead, what are your goals for ByCookie H.?
We hope to open more flagship stores overseas, starting with New York and also expand in China. We’re looking at Singapore as well.
Photo credits Assessoria
