Interview with ORIANA
How do you, as a passionate fashion designer, explore and surpass creative boundaries during the creation process, from initial sketches to hand embroidery?
I realized one day, when I was pursuing my bachelor's degree in fashion design, that many students came up with ideas based on whether the pattern making of their sketches would be difficult. If it was, they would change the design to make it as simple as possible. I, on the other hand, did the opposite. I sketched as many variations as possible for a garment without thinking about the pattern making process. I believe this approach always helped me immensely as it did not create limits to my creativity. I truly believe that there are no limits at all, and with that mindset, it becomes easy to be creatively boundless. Ultimately, it all comes down to your mindset. As Muhammad Ali would say, 'Nothing is impossible.'
2. How does your ability as a polyglot influence how language manifests in your fashion creations? Is there any specific language you find more inspiring?
I’ve never thought about the fact that being a polyglot could have a link with my fashion creations. However, upon reflection, there may indeed be a connection. Perhaps our brains become more developed when we are capable of understanding and speaking multiple languages, which could unconsciously enhance our creative thinking too.
I genuinely have no preference, I think there’s beauty in each and every one of them. That, in my opinion is what makes each language special.
3. While developing the Couture line, focused on customized masterpieces, could you share a story or unique moment that highlights your dedication to this singular approach?
When I decided which themes to mix together. I thought the way to be the most inspired would be to do as many researches as possible on them. So, I watched the movies ‘Woman in gold’ and ‘8 Mile’ repeatedly. I extensively researched Gustav Klimt and read all of Eminem's song lyrics and thought “He’s a genius!”. I also read his book ‘The way I am’. The last theme I chose was jewellery. I was thinking about why I chose those three themes and wrote keywords about their commonalities. My mom advised me to sketch while listening to Eminem’s songs, which I did. Inspired by Eminem’s genius, I repeated in my head non stop while sketching “I’m a genius” and drew hundreds of designs in no time. I felt the excitement when looking at my sketches and knew those were the ones.
4. Considering your passions for travel, books, and music, how do you integrate these experiences into the creation of your collections? Is there any specific inspiration you've brought from your adventures?
I believe that the more we are curious, the more we open our creative minds and get inspired more easily. This is what I think reading books, listening to music, and traveling do. They all make us use our senses in different ways.
Actually, one that comes to mind is when I was in Sardinia the year Muhammad Ali died, and his biography was being sold everywhere. I decided to choose him as a historic figure for a mini collection I had to make during my 2nd year in fashion school and bought his book, which, by the way, is amazing!
5. In ORIANA CAPALDI CIUDAD collections, how is sustainability incorporated beyond packaging practices? Are there specific details in the pieces that reflect the brand's commitment to ecology?
Well, first thing is, I don’t do mass production at all. It’s all handmade by me, in my fashion studio in London and before I had a fashion studio, I used to create the designs in my bedroom. My designs are either unique pieces or limited to 5 pieces maximum of each of the ready to wear designs. I do not waste/throw away any of the fabrics left overs. I always find a way to use them till there’s none of it left. I still have fabrics from years ago, brought from Brussels when I moved to London and am looking forward to make beautiful designs with those ones too. Fabrics are bought local in London. And I do try more and more to use natural fabrics. I do my best to avoid buying any sewing items online as much as possible and if needed I always make sure it’s from the UK at the least. I aim to do better constantly and try finding ways to be as ecological as possible.
6. You mention a commitment to fair compensation for your team. Could you share how this approach has positively influenced the dynamics and creativity within the brand?
I absolutely do believe that whomever I work with is equal to me and I treat people the way I’d like to be treated. Therefore, it is very important for me to create a good atmosphere and try my best to attract people to be part of my team. I believe that, in the end, we all need each other and I think that fair payment is the minimum expectation. Whenever I have been underpaid or not paid at all for my services and talked with people who weren’t either, it reiterated why I do not want to repeat the same experience. We do not stay in those workplaces for long, as we end up despising every task. As time goes by, we complain more about our situation and it also creates an overall negative energy. It affects us more than we realise and I do not ever want anyone to feel this way while being on my team. I know I’m doing it the right way when they tell me they would work with me again in a heartbeat.
7. Explain the meaning behind choosing white tones in the mini collection, conveying timeless sophistication.
Actually, I remember that I didn't color any of my sketches for the Couture mini collection (I always have in mind approximately how my designs would be in colours) and showed them to my teacher, during my second year of my fashion degree, she thought the collection would be all white. I liked that idea as well, but it wasn’t my original intention. So, a few years later, I decided to create some designs that had similarities to the Couture mini collection, but with a white color scheme.
8. How do you aim to celebrate individuality through vibrant colors in your streetwear line?
I personally love to wear colors. I believe that our moods and energy change when we wear them, and it makes people appear more joyful and warm. Particularly during autumn and winter, many people tend to wear black coats and jackets, which I find somewhat depressing as it dominates the scenery.
By offering a range of colorful options, I want to encourage people to embrace their individuality and embrace their unique style through their clothing choices. I want my streetwear line to be a platform for self-expression, where people can confidently wear bold and vibrant colors that reflect their true selves. By doing so, I hope to inspire others to embrace their own uniqueness and celebrate the joy and positivity that vibrant colors can bring.
All "Barbie Disco Collection" photographs by Ciáran Christopher